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Anon
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Coolant change

Been a long time time since I posted, so long in fact that I had to re-register. Two bad football related injuries in a row meant the van and my cars took a back seat. Now gonna forget football, and get back to the vehicles.

The van has been getting started and drove round the block, but I know the coolant hasn't been changed for 4 years since the last MOT. ( I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago). Never changed the coolant in the van before. So what should I look out for? I seem to remember from reading in the past, it is easy to get an air lock in the heater matrix (I think this happened at the garage, as the heater never worked after the last coolant change, not an issue as the van only got used really for summer use) What should I do to avoid this?

Also where is the plug in the block to clear the coolant from there? Would it be a good idea to flush through from there? Since the coolant not been changed for such a long time?

Got the correct coolant (made the mistake of the wrong stuff in my chevette, and got to see pink coolant leak through every join) and a radiator flush. also got an outside tap so could easily connect hose pipe to flush through what ever needing flushed.

I suppose I'm just wanting to be reassured and get a bit of guidance so I don't do any school boy errors (like the past!)

The van been working, but off the road for three years now, and since I'm fit I'm aiming for this summer for a MOT ( needs a bit of welding!!!) hopefully the latest to be on the road, for the Wickerman festival, or one of the Cumbrian music festivals.

I've got a couple of days of work just now and the temperature here, where I live in Scotland has jumped up to 6 degrees, so now seems a good time to get started.

Alls help/advice greatly appreciated


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Mon 12 Dec 2011 @ 12:40 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Get started.

Hi dadodster,

Once you start working on the van you will notice the temp going up a bit higher, but the air will stay blue.
I like yourself have a number of jobs waiting to be done, when the weather allows.
I like to keep some nice inside jobs for this time of year and leave the outside work for Santa.

Doug.

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Mon 12 Dec 2011 @ 20:25 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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dadodster wrote:
Also where is the plug in the block to clear the coolant from there?

Cylinder block drain plug -



On very early models a drain tap was used but they tended to seize up & usually needed removing to drain the block; hexagon may be 7/16" AF or 3/8" Whitworth spanner size.

Would it be a good idea to flush through from there? Since the coolant not been changed for such a long time?

Back flush is a good idea. Warming up the engine first will get loose sludge & crud moving. If the engine is thoroughly warmed up (radiator hot) then allow it to cool off before back flushing with cold water.

Provided that there's a thermostat in place, it's easiest to back flush the system via the heater hose that runs to the thermostat housing: connect hose pipe to heater.

Flush in 2 stages: leave radiator cap on & allow water to exit via the thermostat housing then remove radiator cap & block off exit from thermostat housing. It doesn't matter if the thermostat opens during warm-up because it will completely close soon enough once cold water runs through.

First will back flush cylinder block, second will back flush radiator.

A 3rd flush exiting via the block drain plug might help too especially if there's a plug of sediment to poke through once the drain plug is removed.

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Mon 12 Dec 2011 @ 22:12 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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