|
Author
|
Message
|
|---|
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
Hightop roof off
Hi all today I decided to take the fibreglass high top roof off. I had previously removed all the interior to do the welding. there were so many leaks in the gutter that this was the easiest way to seal them all. the following pictures show the main leak in front roof gutter and other places before taking the roof off
----------------------
|
 Fri 25 May 2012 @ 20:40
|    |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
high top roof off part 2
after cleaning out all the gunge etc, after letting the dust settle we proceeded to use Dyson to clean up all the remaining bits and dust in gutter.
the proceeded to apply the adhesive, we used Tru-Flex 40FC from DElta Adhesives which my son bought for me as this is what they use to put the windscreens and side windows in their coaches.
 
we masking taped around the edge of fibreglass roof about half inch up from bottom so we have a nice neat edge along the adhesive. and we used a u shaped piece of wood to reshape the adhesive so that the water would run freely. as we had to work quite fast before skin formed and the weather was hot, I didn't want to stop to take pics of adhesive in gutter.
will show more pics and results tomorrow once the adhesive has cured as it takes 24 hours to fully cure. will also show you how I held the roof on to drive home, as we did it in the parking bays outside my son-in-laws.
Richard & Judith
----------------------
|
Fri 25 May 2012 @ 20:51
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
Wow what a brave job! Are you just using the adhesive to re-attach the roof ? Amazing. On my wish list, I would love to have all this done to my van. I can see why there are so few of our types of van left. What year is yours?
----------------------
|
Sat 26 May 2012 @ 08:14
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
Hi Scooby, my van is a 1983 registration but the chassis says 84. I wasn't sure whether or not just to use adhesive to hold the roof on. My son in law and I have been investigating all options of how to do this for the last 4 months, he's a panel beater with a good knowledge of auto restoration. we came to the conclusion that there were two options;
option 1; was to have aluminium angle iron pop rivetted to the inside and pop rivetted to the gutter inside, should have explained earlier that the roof was originally fixed with some kind of adhesive to 4 inches of the original roof that they left when they cut out the original roof opening. but because of all the leaks this had rusted away so much that when I took out the interior it just fell down. decided that option 1 wouldn't look too tidy as the rivets outside would always be seen. so my son and son-in-law came up with option 2. my son is a heavy goods vehicle mechanic and works on coaches.
they both said about the aforementioned adhesive, as it would hold in windscreens and windows of coaches, buses and HGV's that it should hold the roof.
option 2 was to glue the roof on as previously described and then when the adhesive was dry we could fibreglass the bottom 2inches of roof to inside of van to make sure it was well and truly held. but looking at it today now it's fully cured, neither of us could lift the roof from inside at all, so I'll see how it goes without the fibreglass for a couple of months.
this job wasn't as difficult as we had anticipated, I would say that anyone with diy skills could do it themselves, but you do need 2, preferably 3 people if you want to have a go yourself, good weather also or inside if you have the facilities, awkward with high tops.
this how I fixed the ratchet strap to floor to make sure roof didn't move after roof was placed in adhesive. not ratchet tight but tight enough to stop it moving.
this was how I fixed ratchet through skylight to a batten.
this is how the outside of gutter edge looks when completed after masking tape removed.
----------------------
|
Sat 26 May 2012 @ 18:40
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
Hi the computer crashed so this is the end part of the last section -
I was in middle of loading picture when it went down, this is the picture
finished internal corner, note how we went up with adhesive on inside as well.
finished internal sides as above.
----------------------
|
Sat 26 May 2012 @ 18:49
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
Why have all the pictures or videos been removed ? 
----------------------
|
Sun 27 May 2012 @ 01:08
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
I was going to ask the same,why have the pictures been removed.
|
Sun 27 May 2012 @ 07:59
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
I will need to find out why
----------------------
|
Sun 27 May 2012 @ 08:19
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
Look's like I will need to start a new thread
----------------------
|
Sun 27 May 2012 @ 08:58
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
lets try again
Hi all today I decided to take the fibreglass high top roof off. I had previously removed all the interior to do the welding. there were so many leaks in the gutter that this was the easiest way to seal them all. the following pictures show the main leak in front roof gutter and other places before taking the roof off
I then went outside and put a stanley knife through the sealant along the roof and the edge of the gutter; obviously only small bits at a time and removed the sealant between the cuts, sorry didn't have time to take pics of this;
had previously tied the roof down from the inside incase the wind picked up and blew the roof away. see pics below
this is where I fixed it through the hole in the floor for table leg socket.
this is where I fixed through the skylight with a piece of batten, after opening it obviously.
in the first image you can also the block of wood ready for when we lift it
after removing all the sealant, my son-in-law and I got in the van and lifted the roof up, at the same time my wife went around and put lengths of wood through to hold roof up off the gutter, (as seen in first picture) we then put 2 long pieces of wood 3x2 s along the inside from side to side so that we could slide the roof in all directions as required to remove all the gunge that was left in the gutterings without having to physically take the roof off and put it on floor
as you can see there is a reasonable gap between the roof and the van gutters, sorry didn't take pics of battens;
we the progressed with a knot wire brush on a 4inch angle grinder to clean the gunge and rust out of gutters all the way round
----------------------
|
Sun 27 May 2012 @ 18:02
| |
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status : Offline
|
Hi Scooby, my van is a 1983 registration but the chassis says 84. I wasn't sure whether or not just to use adhesive to hold the roof on. My son in law and I have been investigating all options of how to do this for the last 4 months, he's a panel beater with a good knowledge of auto restoration. we came to the conclusion that there were two options;
option 1; was to have aluminium angle iron pop rivetted to the inside and pop rivetted to the gutter inside, should have explained earlier that the roof was originally fixed with some kind of adhesive to 4 inches of the original roof that they left when they cut out the original roof opening. but because of all the leaks this had rusted away so much that when I took out the interior it just fell down. decided that option 1 wouldn't look too tidy as the rivets outside would always be seen. so my son and son-in-law came up with option 2. my son is a heavy goods vehicle mechanic and works on coaches.
they both said about the aforementioned adhesive, as it would hold in windscreens and windows of coaches, buses and HGV's that it should hold the roof.
option 2 was to glue the roof on as previously described and then when the adhesive was dry we could fibreglass the bottom 2inches of roof to inside of van to make sure it was well and truly held. but looking at it today now it's fully cured, neither of us could lift the roof from inside at all, so I'll see how it goes without the fibreglass for a couple of months.
this job wasn't as difficult as we had anticipated, I would say that anyone with diy skills could do it themselves, but you do need 2, preferably 3 people if you want to have a go yourself, good weather also or inside if you have the facilities, awkward with high tops.
this how I fixed the ratchet strap to floor to make sure roof didn't move after roof was placed in adhesive. not ratchet tight but tight enough to stop it moving
this was how I fixed ratchet through skylight to a batten.
this is how the outside of gutter edge looks when completed after masking tape removed.
This is the adhesive we used.
finished internal corner, note how we went up with adhesive on inside as well
----------------------
|
Sun 27 May 2012 @ 18:18
| |
|
Time in GMT
|
New posts since your last visit
Old post