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Anon
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Starter Motor / Brakes

Hi everyone,

I've just become the proud owner of a 1983 2.3 petrol cf.

Now sorry if this has already been posted somewhere else on the forum - I'm new.

I've been having problems starting the motor and am pretty sure (based on the advice given to me by a few mechanics) that it is the starter motor. Does anyone have any advice in fitting it? I see it's towards the back and underside of the engine - is it a complicated procedure - any specific tools other than a socket set I will need?

Also, the brakes are a bit dodgy... when I press down I get nothing but when I pull up and then back down again I get a push back and the brakes work. I've been told this may well be the master cylinder but I may try bleeding the brakes first for air. Anyone with any experience with this as to whether or not it will be worth it?

Any help and advice will be massively appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Nathanael

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Thu 21 Jun 2012 @ 19:14 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Problems.

Hi nwbt77,

As for the brakes it may well be the master cylinder or just trapped air in the system, but first check the adjustment at each wheel as it may just be excess travel.
The starter may just be bad connections or a bad earth, check battery state under load with all your lights on, if you do have to remove the starter motor make sure you disconnect the battery first.
You will not need any fancy tools for that just be able to contort your body and try not to use bad words.

Doug.

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Thu 21 Jun 2012 @ 21:43 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi, I have fitted 2 starter motors to our CF 250 (I had to first put on a spare, which was not totally reliable, then fitted reconditioned motor, when I obtained one). I am a totally blind person and as Doug said, patience and dexterity will help greatly. Good luck with the job.
Sat 23 Jun 2012 @ 19:12 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Doug's comment on bad words did make me laugh.... and in hindsight i'm not convinced having my eyes open helped a great deal
Sat 23 Jun 2012 @ 21:18 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks guys...

I had a brief spell underneath after disconnecting the batteries - if I had a swear jar it would've resulted in bankruptcy. I'm going to wait for some good weather and do some stretches before.

When you say the adjustment - what does that entail? Your talking about bleeding?

Also, where's the best place to check for bad connections? The engine has been cutting out on the move and the battery light coming on and also the windscreen wipers are on one second, off the next hour. Could this be related - I was going to save this for another post but I'll throw it out there in case its related.

Cheers!
Sun 24 Jun 2012 @ 11:48 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Most off what you mentioned all comes down to bard connections,
Richard & Judith

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Sun 24 Jun 2012 @ 11:57 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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nwbt77 wrote:
When you say the adjustment - what does that entail? Your talking about bleeding?

Adjustment is reducing the running clearance of brake shoes and drums.

Bleeding basically is a transfusion, of new brake fluid for old that may be contaminated (brake fluid absorbs water) or has collected air due to leaky seal/s or previous work on the van.

Doug's suggestion is the way to go first: adjust the brakes.

Front brakes each side have 2 square-head adjusters on the back; rear brakes have just one (9-inch brakes) or a slot with a toothed wheel behind it that can be turned using a flat blade screwdriver (10-inch brakes).

Need 11/32-inch adjuster spanner for the square head adjusters; Britool one with swivel heads easier to use on front brakes than flat type.

Front brakes: turn each adjuster in normal direction of wheel rotation until brake shoe binds then back off until wheel turns freely.

Rear brakes: slacken handbrake cable at adjuster on front cable first.

9-inch brakes with square head adjuster: wind in adjuster a click at a time (1/4 turn) until shoes bind then back off until wheel turns freely.

10-inch brakes with slot in backplate: turn toothed wheel behind slot clockwise as if viewed from the rear of the van until brakes bind then back off until wheel turns freely.

Adjust handbrake cable after rear brakes adjusted so that wheels just start to bind when handbrake lever on first click of its ratchet and check wheels rotate freely when lever completely off.

If pedal action still low after adjustment and you're not sure about bleeding then come back and holler.

Also, where's the best place to check for bad connections? The engine has been cutting out on the move and the battery light coming on and also the windscreen wipers are on one second, off the next hour.


If the battery connections and also the main connection on the starter are sound then try wobbling the bulkhead plugs when the engine is running with heater or wipers switched on.

Plugs are between the bonnet hinge and front wing, on the left when viewed from under the bonnet. Plugs to go far have thick brown wires in their harness bundle.

If an iffy plug is found then disconnect battery before withdrawing plug to clean terminals inside: terminals for brown wires are 'live'.

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Sun 24 Jun 2012 @ 12:54 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks for all the brake instructions - I'm going to start today and see what happens.

The battery connections look good - I had a jiggle of the bulkhead wires but all seems to be fine. Maybe a loose connection somewhere else in terms of the engine cutting out?

But! in terms of the windscreen wipers - when I get out and jiggle them - they work... They almost work when I put light resistance against them. I guess this is a windscreen wiper motor problem?

...And deeper down the rabbit hole off problems we go...

Mon 25 Jun 2012 @ 08:28 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Wipers fault could be in the motor, e.g. worn self-park sector, but check the wiring first.

Connector multi-plug on the wiper motor is awkward to get at. Access is better if the plastic trunking for the heater is removed from over the top of the cab engine cover aperture, or if the dash panel is unscrewed and eased forwards.

Trunking removal -





View behind dash panel -



Panel will ease out further when the speedometer cable is unclipped -



Wiper motor is the shiny cylinder centre left part obscured by the demist convoluted trunking.

Multi-plug connector -



If the connector is secure then follow the black ground wire.

On yours the other end might be taken to the bolt & nut securing the wiper assembly above the engine aperture -



(CF2 in photo - ground wire taken to common connection behind dash panel.)

If playing with the wiring doesn't change things then the motor may be the problem.

Whatever you do, don't have your hands anywhere the wiper mechanism when checking connections with wipers switched on.

Wobbling wires at bulkhead plugs might not be enough to find a terminals fault: wobble the plugs themselves.

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Mon 25 Jun 2012 @ 11:26 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi,

Thanks for all that information!

It turns out that the breaks just needed adjusting as you said!

In terms of the electrics... It's hard to find the gremlins... its not the starter motor. I've taken it in for a full service so we'll see what happens.

I'm going to crack onto the windscreen wipers next week.


Thanks again.

N
Thu 28 Jun 2012 @ 17:38 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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