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Anon
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Prop-shaft job.

Hi to all,

Got a bit of work done on the shortened prop-shaft today to help speed along the gearbox change when the campervan is off the road, the prop-shaft will be the worst part of the job to get the length and the balance just right.
But to have an overdrive on the gearbox will let the engine run at lower RPM and with that extra gear save a bit more petrol.

doujoy

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Mon 07 Sep 2015 @ 20:44 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Are the overdrive boxes hard to come by? that would make a great improvement to my van :)
Tue 08 Sep 2015 @ 09:52 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Overdrive.

Hi Mike,

These boxes are fairly scarce and very high priced on sites like e-bay or Adrain Bailey and seem to run out around the four hundred pound mark, the one I have has done a very high mileage but I have had it striped down and checked over and replaced one or two parts.
So I will not really know until it is fitted if all is well or not, at the moment the prop-shaft is the main cause for concern.

doujoy

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Tue 08 Sep 2015 @ 10:05 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Prop-shaft CV.

Hi to all,

On the two piece prop-shaft at the diff end short wheel-base CF's have a CV joint which once the rubber boot splits and all the grease escapes the joint quickly runs dry and will fail and cause a lot of damage to the underside of the campervan.
You can no longer get this type of joint so I decided to pick up an old prop-shaft and see if the joint could be removed and repaired, once you find the circlip inside which holds what is left of the rubber boot the pot outer casing slides off and the six steel balls can be removed.
Which leaves the cage and the centre piece which is splined onto the prop-shaft its self and spot welded into place once the weld is ground away the centre piece can removed from the shaft.
At this stage it is a case of checking for the amount of ware mainly on the outer casing and the cage that holds the steel balls in place inside the joint,
this one had very little ware showing on any of the internal parts.
Because these joints are fitted as a sealed for life part there is on way of adding grease so once the they run and get too hot the rubber boot melts and splits, so before putting the joint back together I drilled the outer casing and fitted a grease nipple.
Having repaired the joint I now have the means to replenish the grease and keep the joint in a serviceable state for a much longer time than before, I replaced the rubber boot with a heavy duty rubber boot from a tractor power-drive link.

doujoy

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Tue 08 Sep 2015 @ 20:01 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Ever resourceful!
Wed 09 Sep 2015 @ 09:32 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Porp-shaft.

Hi to all,

With the prop-shaft ready for a new centre bearing which will cost around seventy pounds, the difficult bit being getting the right one because there were two sizes fitted.
The only part that was missing was the locking washer for the bolt which holds the two parts of the prop-shaft together behind the centre bearing, so one had to be made from a suitable sized washer.
The plan now being to have a complete two piece prop-shaft ready to fit when I change over the gearboxes to fit the overdrive box, reducing the amount of time I will have to spend out in the cold winter weather.

doujoy

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Wed 09 Sep 2015 @ 10:54 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Prop-shaft job.

Hi to all,

Priced up and ordered a new centre bearing for this overhauled prop-shaft today so it will be a complete prop just ready to be fitted but may need to be rebalanced.
And changed the gear change turret on the overdrive gearbox so that I can use the rubber bush and spring clip setup to lock in the gearstick, the threaded pipe nut setup allows too much gearstick rattle.

doujoy

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Wed 09 Sep 2015 @ 20:42 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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