Bedford CF-UK Message Board Logo [Home] [Search] [FAQ]
Bedford CF-UK Message Board > CF Questions > Gear Box Advice
[Private Message] [Register] [Profile] [Member list] [Log-in]
Who's Online:
There are 0 member(s), and 1 guest(s) online.
 
[Printable Version] [Post Reply]
Author Message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Gear Box Advice

Ok so our Bertie is on the road once more and, fingers crossed, will stay that way - so now we can start to spruce her up....One item on our longer-term shopping list is a new gear box - the current one works but is very clunky and hard work... It's a 4 speed gearbox and it's in a 2.3l petrol CF2

Now I know very little about these things - so I'm wondering what advice all you clever folks would give about gear box shopping?

In particular - what gear boxes can we use without making the job too painful / complex? Someone mentioned using a gearbox with an 'overdrive' in it - but this doesn't mean much to me at the moment - or are we best sticking to a like for like replacement?

And when it comes to buying a gearbox, are there any tips you can give me on how to assess the condition of the gearbox (I'm assuming we will be shopping for a second hand one - although if we can get a new one that fits I'd be happy to reconsider).

Sorry for the basic questions - I've very little doubt that I will be obtaining some help on this project, but I'm keen to learn what I'm talking about first...

----------------------

Tue 29 Jul 2008 @ 12:40 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Hi,
Glad to hear your back on the road, not changed a gearbox before but if buying secondhand it's always best to buy one that you've seen running if poss.

Also you need to double check the details of your van - If it's a CF2 then i think it's either 1.8 or 2.0 engine - only the CF1 (and CF1 facelift) were fitted with the 2.3 engine.
If it looks like a cf2 and it's got a 2.3 slant engine then it will be a CF1 facelift.

Craig

----------------------

Tue 29 Jul 2008 @ 19:11 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

You are better off sticking to finding the same type of gearbox that you have now.

This makes fitting it easier.

There's 3 different types of 4 speed gearboxes and you need to find out which 1 you have fitted.

Bedford 4 speed.
Vauxhall 4 speed
ZF 4 speed.

Then there's the option of fitting the vauxhall 4speed with overdrive which will require a new prop and mounts.

Also there's the ZF 5speed box, but this conversion requires loads of mods.

----------------------

Tue 29 Jul 2008 @ 21:19 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

The major problem is that there are no 'new' units available on the market. Somewhere, in a dark shed in Luton, there may lurk a never-used gearbox but I've never seen a NOS (new-old-stock) one on the market.

Therefore, you are limited to second-hand units which may well have the same, and possibly worse, problems than your existing one. There is no real way to tell until the 'box is driven.

I would avoid Ebay and other second-hand markets like the plague for this kind of item. Your best bet would be to find one for sale by a club member (they do crop up) or get Mr. Bailey to courier you one down from his yard in Leeds. If it's rubbish or in some way broken, at least you'll get your money back.

As for dropping the damn thing out and refitting it.... I filed that section of the Haynes manual under 'F' for Fiction as I just don't have the skills and experience. You would need a fairly skilled person to help you with it.
Tue 29 Jul 2008 @ 23:21 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

The good news is that it's a simple job to replace the same sort of gearbox.
It would probably only take a mechanic about half a day.
But yours may only require basic work to make it change smoothly again, so I would ask your mechanic before getting another.

----------------------

Wed 30 Jul 2008 @ 01:59 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Wow - thanks for the responses so far - they're really helpful - although surprise, surprise they seem to raise a few more questions.

First off - to answer Craig - its a 1982 2.3l petrol engine and the log book and Haynes call it a CF2. However a bit more reading on this site suggests that what I have is actually a CF facelift? I just keep on learning with Bertie

I'm now going to try and work out which gearbox I've got - if anyone has any clues as to where this information will be found let me know - otherwise I shall just go and explore Bertie

Jeff & Magnox - I'll investigate whether it's fixable. Either way I will definitely be employing someone for this job - although I may have to watch and try to learn something when it happens. It's not an urgent job - so once I know what I want to do I'll certainly be keeping an eye out on the board here

Gethin - the Overdrive option sounds interesting. Am I right in thinking that this improves fuel consumption rather than speed? I guess I'm going to have to go away and understand what would be involved in replacing the prop and mounts as I don't really know what these are, or how big a job replacing them would be...
Thu 31 Jul 2008 @ 13:42 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

2300 petrol in a CF1 facelift should have the Vauxhall 4-speed box; this has the gear lever in a turret bolted onto the left side of the gearbox and, as Gethin says, a Laycock overdrive will fit but this involves swapping the gearbox mainshaft and extension housing as well as messing with propellor shaft.

If all the gears are clunky then check for low gearbox oil level (filler/level plug on gear lever side of gearbox to rear of turret) and also correct clutch free play at relay lever near clutch fork but dragging clutch (and seizing spigot bearing in the back of the crankshaft) shows up as reverse gear always crunching when selected.
Thu 31 Jul 2008 @ 16:44 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Phil's advice is spot on as usual. What's the mileage of your van, Countess ? Just asking as I have exactly the same problem as you on a 23,000 mile engine and 'box and my problem is a dragging clutch caused by a seized clutch cable.

I was about to swap 'boxes until someone suggested I have a look at the clutch. It was replaced just before I bought it and, basically, the previous owner had cured the problem (worn clutch) but not the cause (worn clutch due to dragging). It got progressively worse to the point that the van now slips forward with the clutch fully released and the gearbox is horrendous.

Except... it isn't the gearbox... !
Sun 03 Aug 2008 @ 07:16 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

It's got 28k on the clock - I'll investigate the clutch as well - thanks Magnox.

As I said - at the moment it's not too bad, although it drives my partner - the real Countess - mad when she's behind the wheel. It's just one of the jobs that is on the list now that the really urgent stuff seems to be taken care of (he says crossing his fingers desperately!!!)
Mon 04 Aug 2008 @ 09:23 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

When tackling the clutch it's a good idea to have the flywheel re-machined flat (draw out the 3 dowels first). This ensures that when the clutch is assembled the diaphragm spring pulls flat giving a light pedal action and longer clutch life.

If you want to 'fit and forget' a new clutch then also renew the spigot bearing in the back of the crankshaft, the plastic bush in the relay lever and also the clutch cable. To get a good pedal action any elongated clevis holes in the clutch pedal and relay lever can be welded up and re-drilled and/or have thick washers welded on if very badly worn.

If the clutch operation has been heavy then check the bulkhead for cracks where the cable passes through, weld repair as necessary; there is enough cable adjustment to be able to weld on a repair plate or a thick 3/4 inch ID washer if the bulkhead has too many cracks to weld up neatly.
Mon 04 Aug 2008 @ 14:09 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

If I'm not too late to add to this post, then whilst I agree with what Phil Bradshaw says about the spigot bearing, I wold say that it is essential to renew it, as it helps to support the gearbox primary shaft, (the shaft sticking out of the bell housing), and this in turn helps to make the main primary shaft bearing last longer. This is important since gearboxes and parts are so difficult to obtain.

----------------------

Sat 23 Aug 2008 @ 00:17 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

gearbox

I had a problem with my gearbox the gears were difficult to engage and the clutch pedal was very heavy. As the thrust bearing was was making a noise I decided to just move the gearbox back by removing the 4 bolts that hold it to the belhousing( its a 4 speed vauxhall gearbox)the clutch had been recently fitted so I did not want to change it When I looked at the clutch release arm I noticed there was a crack in it which caused it to flex which meant it was not pressing the pressure plate evenly and is what probably what caused the thrust bearing to fail I changed the thrust bearing with a spare one I had and replaced the release arm when I put it all together the clutch pedal was lighter and I have no trouble getting the gears I spent a couple of weeks in Scotland went up the West side over the Trossachs and down the East side Cairngorms etc with no problem
1979 CF glendale camper 2.3 petrol
Sun 24 Aug 2008 @ 20:22 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

gearbox swap options?

What gearboxes from other manufacturers have been successfully adapted in a CF?

----------------------

Fri 22 Jul 2011 @ 15:59 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Think the ford Type 9 has been the most common combination.

So long as you can get an adaptor plate and flywheel spacer made up then you should be able to fit most of the RWD gearbox's

----------------------

Fri 22 Jul 2011 @ 16:19 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

The Ford Type9 came on the Capri and Sierra, the gear lever position seems to be problematic..



Any other modern solutions?


----------------------

Fri 22 Jul 2011 @ 20:31 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Transit version of the same box: gear lever on the side.

See 7378

----------------------

Fri 22 Jul 2011 @ 20:56 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Some good information there!

----------------------

Sun 24 Jul 2011 @ 13:16 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Any other options that have been tried?

----------------------

Tue 26 Jul 2011 @ 00:57 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

The ZF 4 speed looks a goer for this. Excellent gear box. My Cf did 213 k miles and I never touched the GB. You will need the bell housing and cross member mounting too as it is different from the Vauxhall one. Maybe clutch linkage stuff as well.

----------------------

Tue 22 Nov 2011 @ 15:39 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
Deleted
Posts :
Location :
Status    : Offline

Gearboxes.

Hi,

If you are going to stay with the Bedford four speed gearbox I have one rebuild
sitting on the shelf, it would a streight one out one in the side gearchange to hold in the gearstick is threaded nut type.
This box has been tested on a rig to check bearings, sincros, and gearchanging,
just fit it and add gearoil.

Doug.

----------------------

Tue 22 Nov 2011 @ 20:28 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Time in GMT
[Post Reply]
New posts since your last visit Administrative Functions: Open/Close/Delete Thread / Move Thread
Old post

Forum Jump:

Back to the CF-UK Homepage ][ Email CF-UK

Powered by FunkBoard vCF0.74c