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Anon
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Dormobile Landcruiser work in progress!
Wanting to make a warmer / cooler van and not need so much heating, I decided that it was about time to upgrade the 3mm foam insulation in the body of the van. I removed the panels, to find that there was no insulation at all!
The vinyl coated hardboard panels were rather distorted and saggy and scuffed, so I will use them as templates when I make the new ones.
Many of the screws remaining had rusted, so that took alot of time
 /img]
That done, I decided that the tool bins in the back could benefit from cleaning up and so used a bottle jack and board to helplift them out
Once these were out, I cut some foil backed camping mats to fit the gaps (Lidls, &5 each)
 /img]  /img]
There was alot of gooey putty around them to make the seal which took some cleaning up.
The last stage for the insulation was to remove all the open cell foam which had originally been used for draughtproofing.
Unfortunately this gets wet from road spray and sits next to the coachwork steel (bad idea) but Im lucky I caught it in time:
 /img] I think this is the cause os alot of problems with landcruisers
I replaced it with filler foam- to be trimmed tomorrow...
 /img]
I think all of this will improve things somewhat, Ill let you know when winter comes!
I thought id post this job as I think other Landcruiser owners might benefit.
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 Sat 27 Jun 2009 @ 20:10
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Anon
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Shall return to bodywork later, now that my brake bits have arrived.
Rear wheel cylinders replaced- think thats gone fine, but still not getting response on pedal.
Replaced master cylinder.
Same problem.
After advice from Phil, took cylinders apart to clean. (Old & new):
Between them, I hope Ive got enough seals to make it happen...
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Tue 07 Jul 2009 @ 21:09
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Anon
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Finally got the relays for the lights done- and discovered a pair of halogen headlams in the shed from a joblot purchase i hadnt sorted through- just cleaned them up and they will be in tomorrow! I can se where im going! how cool is that? photosa and notes to follow2!
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Sun 14 Mar 2010 @ 22:01
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Anon
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r u upgradeing your lamps are u going for 80ws if so,i wouldnt both dont made much diffrents.if u wont more light then a xeion kits is he one they are on ebay a bit pricey i got some on my other car .i would say they are very good if u can push the bout out.
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Mon 15 Mar 2010 @ 05:56
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Anon
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I took out the original sealed beam units which were about as bright as a candle, the units ive put in take the H4 bulbs, so should be able to finge better than the 65/55 W bulbs currently in them!
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Tue 16 Mar 2010 @ 20:52
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Anon
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HEATER REFURB
As I had the radiator out to make life easier putting in the electronic ignition and paint the engine bay, I thought Id take the opportunity to get my heater sorted as it had been on full heat all the time (retrofit valve that came with the van was unsuitable and the inner heater was not connected, the fan squealed when it worked and the controls were routed texas style, and.. and..)
After removing all hoses and the fan connection, 6 screws released both the fan unit and heater unit.
I undid the single screw on one half of the fan housing then removed the clips- be careful- some of the clip housings get brittle over time- one was already damaged and I biffed one on the heater unit..
The rubber seal had been held in place by some gloop which had the adhesion properties of jelly, so removed that. The seal was a bit distorted but salvageable.
With the casing halved, the layout becomes clear..
but the edge of the fan had been rubbing on the casing causing plastic to melt- this was later rubbed down when the motor was rebuilt using wet n dry:
The fan itself was removed (one spring washer, fan, spring clip and two washers):
Then the three clips holding the motor casing on were removed:
Cleaned up the inside of the motor, regreased and freed off the rear bearing as much as possible.. then discovered the brush housing plate was cracked.
Cured by Araldite.
Motor reassembled, then bench tested. Still squeals but not as badly- hopefully might 'run in?' replacement can wait until I have more time on my hands!
Unit reassembled, then I started on the heater.
Removed clips, tested the meater matrix for leaks (as it hadnt been connected when I got the van, I thought it might be a possible fault.
No probs, but no foam on the baffle- just reams of tape which was promptly removed- no wonder I couldnt shut off the flow of air!
Cut strips from a camping mat and secured with contact adhesive-
And trimmed after a test fit to allow the hinge to close (notice bottom edge!)
Checked fit- bingo!
Putting it all back in was fun- not enough hands to take photos but holding the heater unit in place with lenghts of wood allowed me to get the fan unit bolted back on.
Then came the exciting job of fitting all the cables wires, ducting and stuff back in- whicdh was by far the hardest bit- Im too lanky to get into some spaces!
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Wed 14 Apr 2010 @ 09:46
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Anon
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d retrospectively- a length of foam around the edge of the heater matrixes (matrii?) will stop them shaking interminably- here we go again!
And top up the highest inlet to prime the heaters!
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Sat 17 Apr 2010 @ 01:02
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Anon
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AIR RIDE SUSPENSION
Will post pics later, but I got an airride kit of a scrapped beddy, which I fitted in between jobs- incredibly simple, just unbolted the bump stops and fitted the units to the same holes. Drivers side much harder as gas, breaks, van wiring and rear light loom all competing for space, but with a bit of cussing and skinned knuckles, got it all to fit.
I set the pressure to 45 and went for a spin. Between a much improved ride and more positive throttle, I feel like Ive got a new van! Plus, its a great feeling knowing Ive done the work myself!
Next up will be converting the brake system from single to dual cylinder- which, as it involves pipework and all that, may well get an expert in!!
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Sat 17 Apr 2010 @ 08:55
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Anon
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Dual circuit brakes
Looks like one extra pipe from master cylinder to 3-way connector, according to Haynes, and change the latter to two straight through connectors.
Aren't these available from the donor vehicle?
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Sat 17 Apr 2010 @ 09:54
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Anon
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Unfortunately not- the scrappist cut through the pipe on removal! Ill get new connectors to make fitting easier!
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Sat 17 Apr 2010 @ 19:48
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Anon
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If the front-rear pipe is ok from the rear axle to forwards of the fuel tank then a new front end to the master cylinder can be added (delete front/rear tee piece, use the bracket for an extra pipe clip) by using a male/female junction like on later CFs or a line connector (double male or double female ends); if you can't get a 3/8" UNF connector then a metric one will do, just fit metric tube nuts to suit.
Front lines should be straightforwards: make up a pipe between the master cylinder & front brakes tee piece. Tube nuts will have to be 3/8" UNF.
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Sun 18 Apr 2010 @ 00:42
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Anon
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DOOR CARDS
After lots of dirty work, made new door cards today, usin 3mm mdf instead of hardboard- the original stuff was like paper mache, but managed to make templates nonetheless- NOTE- the plastic plugs were drilled on the job, so dont assume that the holes on one card are the same as the other! I used copydex and 6mm staples to secure the original vinyl in place- gentle work pulling in the edges got rid of a few tears. I then fitted new speakers which I should hopefully hear over my clattery tappets.. next job!
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Sat 24 Apr 2010 @ 23:58
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Anon
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AIRRIDE REPAIRS
Did something really daft. Didnt check gaps around the second hand airbellows I bought when I fitted them. Dropped the pressure in Cambridge with all the speed bumps- too many, too high, and too bl**dy hard! Spare tyre carrier nicked one badly, leaving a leak.
Unable to get inside the unit to fit a patch, I had a thought.. In my fell running days, cheap trainers were often modded using 'shoe goo' which is basically liquid rubber. hehe...
had to be worth a go!
The idea was to inject some shoe goo into the puncture and let gravity do the rest- with a bit of time. I tested how the stuff flowed and set, and reckoned its gotta be worth a try.
 [/img] Nasty!
 [/img] Desperately trying to fill the syringe as cleanly a possible. I forced the tip into the hole in the bellows and gently rotated the syringe as i squeezed it to try and make a big a patch as possible. I used the full contents of the syringe so the patch should be big and thick enough to hold...
I left the stuff to dry with the puncture at the lowest point so that gravity would do what it does best.
 [/img]
Not looking bad this morning! Fingers crossed, problem solved (but I removed the spare tyre carrier in readiness for a rethink!
;] JOBSAGOODUN! Inflated to 30psi this afternoon- no hisses or pops- 3 hours on, the needle's still at the right place (unless the gauge has bust!) That makes me a very happy bunny. 
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Sun 09 May 2010 @ 08:30
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Anon
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Hi Mikey
Can you post some pics of where the airride is fixed to?
Also which make is it?
I am in need of something like this as my rear leaf springs are well down.
Thanks in anticipation
Dave
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Mon 10 May 2010 @ 21:55
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Anon
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I was l.ucky enough to find a Landcruiser getting scrapped- it had Dunlop units fittet, which bolted to where the bump stops were- a u bracket fits over the axle with space (just, and scary) fpr the brake pipes to fit thru. Ill post pics asap.
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Mon 10 May 2010 @ 23:34
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Anon
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Before I get geared up for the cab blasting repairs and respray, Ive been looking at the windscreen rubber- I have a spare as the one on is perished, but it looks like the one on all Landcruisers Ive seen are modified in the top corners- has anyone ever replaced one? Did a standard one fit well enough? Id hate to get to the point of putting it back in and finding its all gone horribly wrong!
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Thu 20 May 2010 @ 21:15
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Anon
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Windsdreen Rubber
Hi Mike, standard one should fit ok I have just fitted a new one on mine 1972 landcruiser, got it from East Kent Trims they have one on ebay iten no 320535377812 will need 2 people to fit one inside and one outside to push it in while the string is being pulled out,Paul.
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Fri 21 May 2010 @ 07:39
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Anon
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Thanks, Paul- thats very reassuring!
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Fri 21 May 2010 @ 07:47
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Anon
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Clutch Cable and front brakes
Finally got round to fitting the new clutch cable- it wouldnt have taken long except for getting the clip off the inside end of the cable- took me ages to work out how it plays- IT THE MOST DIFFICULT THING IN THE WORLD!!! Worked it out eventually though 
Now working on the front brakes- thought Id only need to renew one wheel cylinder but two started leaking whilst I was working on them- hopefully salvageable for spares but Ive ordered new ones anyway. Drivers side done, now for tother side.
My bearing caps have been hammered badly in the past- anyone got any tips?
Hopefully Ill be ready to put the dual system master in soon- think Ill need help doing the pipes though!
Cant wait to be back on the road, but Ive enjoyed working on the old girl;D
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Wed 16 Jun 2010 @ 20:51
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Anon
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sorry ive not been involved of late- two hernias and lymph nodes on overdrive have laid me out for a bit- op on weds/ thurs, but hopefully back on form asap.
havent got moby running yet- not flexible enough to check everything! Jeez, hayfever doent help my situation either!  !
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Mon 28 Jun 2010 @ 20:58
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