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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Electrics. Right the, though Id get on with some steady jobs which didnt involve grovelling under Moby with a spanner. Although Ive got all the bits for converting from single to dual system brakes bar the flaring tools and pipe benders, I thought Id better take it easy after my recent injury.Ive decided to put in 3 13A sockets (Berker type)- originally there were some standard domestic type sockets that I kept clonking my noggin on and another one just below the sink, which made me wince. I decided to put a socket either side of the overhead storage and another out the side of the wardrobe. This allowed for the shortest cable run. Whilst doing this, I decided that it would be a good time to supply the cab light and extra fans from the distributor unit so I could run both off the leisure battery. Eventually I shall do the same for the stereo. 
12v system shown red/black, mains in green I discovered that It put the feed for the charge system in the wrong place- now on the 'to do list'. Im pleased that the wiring will be well and truly hidden away behind trim and will take the opportunity to clear out all the little loose nuts and screws Ive found above the windscreen- that might reduce some of the rattles! I thought Id pack the remaining space with foam for insulation and sound deadening. Just need my remaining plugs to arrive, get them in and then connect to the consumer unit. Bit of araldite fixed the gearbox to one of the fans, so nowI should be a bit cooler when I drive! I then got on with putting new press studs in for the silver screens Im making. I thought Id replace all of them as some had got bashed and others were simply missing but there was a variety of different sizes present so I though Id brave it and avoid the possibility of putting the wrong stud in the wrong place. Some needed a bit of assistance with Araldite where the holes had been bored too big but at least Im now ready to get the studs on the pads themselves fitted so I can get the fit perfect. It will certainly go a long way towards keeping the van cooler by day and warmer at night- will post pics when done. Thanks to Paul Rubins for his advice on doing the brake pipes- I shall be getting onto that as soon as possible, then get everything adjusted just so should be back on the road! ---------------------- |
 Sun 04 Jul 2010 @ 06:22
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Pads all round Finally made up the cab pads- bar a couple of minor adjustments.I JUST HOPE I NEVER HAVE TO TOUCH A SEWING MACHINE AGAIN- until tomorrow... 
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Sun 04 Jul 2010 @ 20:30
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Brake pipes Finally got started on stripping out the old pipes ready for the conversion to the dual cylinder- Ive managed to borrow the pipe benders but am struggling to make the correct profile at the ends- any hints? Im keeping the original pipes as a guide for making the new ones. Im glad I bought new nuts for everywhere as the old ones have definitely seen better days.---------------------- |
Thu 08 Jul 2010 @ 20:05
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
If you mean the tighter bends close to connections then try using a ring spanner on the tube nut as a lever. ---------------------- |
Thu 08 Jul 2010 @ 23:17
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Phil, its the flared ends Im struggling with- need an idiots guide to flaring and then waisting the ends- if necessary, Ill get the pipes bent to shape then see if I can get an expert do the ends though would prefer to do them myself- I just need to know Im doing it right! ---------------------- |
Thu 08 Jul 2010 @ 23:28
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
woohoo! did my brake pipes today, but too hot and tired to do the bleeding today so Im letting it sit for a bit and will look tomorrow to ett done.Then ve justgot to ajust t cluth and t some fuel in and hopefully Ill be on the road! ---------------------- |
Fri 09 Jul 2010 @ 17:13
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
right then- brakes bled, engine starts (vacuum pipe had come off) but... clutch. The new cable moves slowly and despite racking my brains, double checking advice on this site, I can only engage reverse when the engine is running. I can engage all gears with the engine off, but no matter where I adjust the ballnut, I cant get the forward gears. should I resort to packing washers on the bulkhead even though its a new cable? Before the cable change, I could still get gears so not sure what to do... ---------------------- |
Sat 10 Jul 2010 @ 12:09
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Solved that problem by ignoring the haynes manual- but wish I could get it done properly. Went for a drive, adjusted brakes. Realised Id left tape on one of the front brake shoes. Dissassembled, cleaned off the cack- job done. Now its back to finishing off the domestic electrics- once the remaining bits arrive. In the meanwhile, Ive got as rear bearing thats seeping again- so better start hunting for the required bits... eventually Ill get away in it! ---------------------- |
Sat 10 Jul 2010 @ 14:29
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Photo of the clutch relay lever could help... Seeping rear hub bearing: check axle breather - can clog up surprisingly quickly. ---------------------- |
Sat 10 Jul 2010 @ 18:50
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
the relay lever is the same orientation as in the Haynes manual-ie, longer section from pivot is below but will post pic soon. the hub bearing is the same one you saw about a year ago- I think the seal has gone on it but Ill check the breather again, though it looked clean when I investigated earlier. ---------------------- |
Sat 10 Jul 2010 @ 19:04
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Hi Phil- hope this helps! 
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Sun 11 Jul 2010 @ 13:12
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Anyone know the reference number for4 a rear wheel bearing for a 1973 22cwt? I might just need the seal but dont fancy having it all stripped down whilst I wait! ---------------------- |
Sun 11 Jul 2010 @ 17:27
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Relay lever looks right. Odd that you can get reverse but not forward gears; if the clutch isn't releasing properly then reverse usually is the one to baulk first. Check gearbox oil level & also whether the rocker lever & shaft in the gear lever turret needs some lubrication. Wheel bearing for yours I think is the larger of the 2 for single wheel rear hubs: Quinton Hazell QWB595, Moprod BKS78. Easier to get in France apparently - http://www.bedford-cf.co.uk/mboard/thread.php?id=8671 Remove the brake drum & check where the oil leak is from first: if it's just getting past the O-ring seal then gasket glue should sort it. EDIT. Make that remove brake drum & unbolt retainer plate. ---------------------- |
Sun 11 Jul 2010 @ 18:14
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks Phil- Ill get onto it this evening and tomorrow- from memory, the bearing looked ok last time we looked at it so Ill attempt the fix you suggest- would 'instant gasket' do it? ---------------------- |
Sun 11 Jul 2010 @ 18:23
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
'Instant' gasket should be ok; seal of bearing in axle tube counterbore is static once the 4 retainer bolts & nuts are tight. ---------------------- |
Sun 11 Jul 2010 @ 18:31
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Mikey - would you mind taking photos of what you do with the rear as mine too has an off/on leak. I keep cleaning the breather and I've been told it's not affecting my brakes but if I spot it leaking again I will have a go with the gasket goo too. Thanks. ---------------------- |
Mon 12 Jul 2010 @ 07:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Bearings... Decided Id better take a closer look..
it was noticable from the inside, 
turning the hub to access each nut didnt show up any grinding- all rather smooth really! Well, the oil had been pouring out! 
But with a bit of puffing, got the shaft out... 
All seems to turn nicely, but theres a bit of rocking in the bearing- about a mm. Is this usual? No signs of bluing- so now Im unsure of wehat to do next. Phil, do I just add the gasket seal around the o ring after cleaning the surfaces? EDIT- been looking closely at the bearing, cleaning up and trying to see if oil is passing through the bearing itself. Cant make my mind up on this one so looking to see if I can track a bearing kit down. Maybe... http://www.prema.at/Kataloge/RADLAGER-2007.pdf 
lists front and rear.. im concerned that theres different codes for pre and post 1974- my van is '73- what should I be looking for? ---------------------- |
Mon 12 Jul 2010 @ 12:47
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
That leak looks more like excess grease coming from within the bearing; if it was more mobile (i.e. with axle oil content) then it would be spread everywhere & some of it ought to be escaping via the drain hole in the brake backplate that should align with the smaller of the 5 holes in the spacer plate. O-ring seal seems to have been doing its job of keeping oil in the axle tube. The problem with syringe repacking a rear hub bearing is that it's difficult to judge the amount of grease so as to leave sufficient air space to allow for the bearing acting like a centrifugal pump (balls & cage being the impeller). This directs grease to the outer track and overflow in absence of sufficient air space in the bearing takes the easiest way out via the dust shield. If the inner track is running off-centre in the taper lip seal due to bearing wear then axle oil will be drawn in past the lip and eventually the bearing will pump axle oil past the dust shield. It doesn't look like there's much, if any, axle oil getting through though so try the following. Check that there is grease still in the bearing (remove seal lip spring & have a peep); syringe in some more if need be. Then, once the brakes side is clean (avoid getting degreaser in the bearing!), do what I seem to have missed out (on a very long day..): pack a load of LM bearing grease over the taper lip seal, bearing & retainer ring so that it forms a plug in the axle tube when the shaft is refitted. It's harder for the bearing to draw in grease than axle oil, thus retarding pumping action, & it could stay leak free until the rear brakes need servicing again. Quinton Hazell listing is a bit misleading: QWB607 is for twin wheel rear hubs; QWB175C is the smaller of the 2 rear hub bearings. ---------------------- |
Mon 12 Jul 2010 @ 16:29
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks very much, Phil- I'll hopefully get that done this evening if it stops raining- a couple more questions though- 1. should I still try the instant gasket fix? 2. The breather is an 'interference fit' - would it be worth looking at replacing it? Thanks ---------------------- |
Mon 12 Jul 2010 @ 16:39
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
It won't hurt to be sure that the O-ring seal isn't letting oil through by using 'instant' gasket glue ... if you can manage that as well as have loads of grease in the vicinity! If the breather is clear then there's no point in removing the spigot. However, if the cap keeps collecting crud then you can try deleting the cap & attaching a piece of soft tubing over the spigot (or a replacement that's got more of a shank for tubing) like on early Transit rear axles. ---------------------- |
Mon 12 Jul 2010 @ 17:08
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