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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
I see your point re grease/gasket seal  being slow today.
Ive got a bearing kit on order but I think I'll go with your suggestion and pack a wad of grease in and see how that goes- if the gear oil gushes out afterwards, Ill then put in the new bearing. Thanks for all the advice, I would be genuinely lost without it (like my nuts an bolts:* ) ---------------------- |
 Mon 12 Jul 2010 @ 17:21
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Checked grease packing then put a generous dollop of LM around the relevant end... 
gently home... 
reassembled brakes and adjusted, topped up diff with oil and now rather pleased! Thanks again for all the advice! ---------------------- |
Mon 12 Jul 2010 @ 20:31
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
CV joint grease wouldn't have been my choice: molybdenum sulphide component is a 'caking' grease as opposed to free-flowing lithium greases & as such is unsuitable for wheel bearings; 'general purpose' means things like ball joints, universal joints; CV joint balls move little and relatively slowly even at large drive angles in comparison to wheel bearings. However, as a plug to prevent draw-in of axle oil into the bearing it might do a better job for having some caking properties that will serve to keep the plug where it is rather than tend to migrate along the axle tube over time. ---------------------- |
Tue 13 Jul 2010 @ 00:33
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Great Mikey - thanks for those photos - a picture tells a thousand words etc. ---------------------- |
Tue 13 Jul 2010 @ 07:23
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
oops- well from your second comment Phil, I shall revel in being an accidental genius. I think I misinterpreted your earlier instructions but Ill see how it goes and keep you posted! I didnt realise there were so many variations withing each type of grease and stuff. Even for oils (gearbox etc), it can be tricky trying to match whats in the Haynes manual to the shelves in Halfords. Perhaps a list of lubricant types and uses would be a handy reference page? Scooby- no probs, Im always taking pics anyway for my own reference, but I know how useful it is to have something clearer than a grainy black n white Haynes photo to decipher.. ---------------------- |
Tue 13 Jul 2010 @ 07:43
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Had another tinker with the clutch adjustment today- nearly at the end of the threaded rod, ignored whats in the haynes manual and gear changes are much smoother. not convinced its the best solution but Ill see how it goes. Rear bearing seems to be holding up nicely :) ---------------------- |
Wed 21 Jul 2010 @ 22:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
If there's slack in the cable or in either of the cable clevises when ball nut clearance at the clutch fork is minimal then check for the push rod clevis binding against the relay lever. If this is the case then it's sign of needing either - (a) packing washer/s on the outer cable at the bulkhead (bonnet side) to set the relay lever slightly more vertical, or (b) a notch filed or ground into the relay lever or both; this will accommodate any slop due to wear at the pedal end and any discrepancies in cable dimensions away from optimum. ---------------------- |
Wed 21 Jul 2010 @ 23:46
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks Phil- could you elaborate on where to notch the relay lever? Im better with pictures! Ill go for packing washers first though! Cheers Mike ---------------------- |
Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 12:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
If the push rod clevis has been binding on the relay lever then there'll be the beginnings of a notch at the contact point: just make the notch a bit bigger if washers on the cable (first step anyway) aren't enough to stop the clevis from binding. ---------------------- |
Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 12:36
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
get your thinking- but it all seems free so I'll go for the washers and sort it that way- but Im right in thinking that putting a new clutch cable in was overdue? ---------------------- |
Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 12:48
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
9.5-inch clutch is prone to heavy operation due to cable wear & binding when metal-metal contact (due to plastic liner loss) goes rusty &/or cable strands start breaking. Rule of thumb is replace cable when clutch operation is heavy or pedal action is very low even when there's b-all clearance at the clutch fork. It's cheaper & easier than tackling the clutch first... If clutch operation still heavy with a new cable with slop of worn clevises etc. accommodated then suspect clutch &/or flywheel wear causing the pressure plate diaphragm spring to cone out so much that its natural over-centre point (when the diaphragm spring goes past flat profile & the pressure plate lifts off the centre plate linings) isn't anywhere near the top of the pedal action. ---------------------- |
Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 13:19
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Fridge rebuild Because its too wet to work and Ive broken too many bits of me, Im reconditioning the frigde which I believe is the proper one for a Dromobile Landcruiser- it an Electrolux RAM 10B which is a 2 way Gas/12v unit.So far Ive rebuilt the hinges and reinsulated the door- hurrah for silver backed camping mats! I laminated them up to be a very snug fit, replacing the polyeurethane and rockwool filling it had before. Ive resprayed it gold as it was looking very tired and tested it on 12v, and it goes cold like it should. Now the questions- anyone by chance got an instruction or installation manual for one? How do I light the gas bit? I know theres a twiddly knob (not me) attached to a sparker but dont know the correct sequence or proceedure to ensure success. Finally as its an old fridge which is filled with CFCs, where can I get it topped up before someone decides it cannot be done anymore? ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 12:18
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Might be ammonia rather than CFC refrigerant. Isn't there a member who Knows These Things? ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 12:48
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Found a few spares suppliers- for flints try http://www.buyspares.co.uk/product.pl?pid=293923 door seal http://www.buyspares.co.uk/product.pl?pid=419691 but thats about it so far- Theres a bloke on JustKampers.com, but he last posted in 2005. bit by bit- its going in, just waiting fot a replacement flue. ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 14:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Hi Mikey, can you post a couple of pics of the gas light bits on the front of the fridge. On ours (which doesn't work again now) I press in the FFD (flame failure device) button (blue on ours) then press the piezo button (black on ours. Hold the FFD for about 20 secs and you should see a small blue flame through the vent at the bottom left back of the fridge. It might not be CFC's as Phil says. We shook our fridge up to mix the coolants together. It worked but now it doesn't and so we need to re-investigate. I had a look at this article for some info. http://www.a-tconsulting.co.uk/caravan_tech/fridges.html ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 17:19
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Fridge lighting proceedure Mikeyboy, we have a Elecrolux fridge I will send you a PM on how we light ours.---------------------- |
Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 19:56
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Hi just a bit of info most of the fridges we use in our vans are not CFC based gasses, therefore cannot be refilled:C the systems we have are called absorption cycle, ie no moving parts, the unit just relies on heat to change the state of ammonia,hydrogen and water which allows refrigeration;D so if the fridge has been stood for a while it's a good idea to turn them over a few times to mix things up, when doing this you should hear lquid trickling through thats normal,;] ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 20:16
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks for the edvice peeps- my fridge is so old that it has a flint and wheel to spark it! Theres a dial for 1. Turn gas on, possibly to Max 2. Hold in red button 3. Whilst holding in the aforementioned red button, turn the twisty knob to make spark. 4. Hold in red button for an unspecified period of time. 5. Adjust volume control to desited temp 6. Enjoy cold beer 12-68 hour later. Ill hopefully be getting a flue for it in the next couple of days so will give it a go.... I know it works fine on electrics, and have now set it up to run off a relay when driving, switch to 12v when hooked up and once Ive got the gas sorted, I shall be a very happy bunny.:) Perhaps it mght be handy to have a collection of PDF'd manuals for things like fridges, propex heaters, etc like we do for various zig units (members area only, obv!;) ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 20:35
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Back door, man! Decided that as i needed more space in my shed it was about time I sorted out my back door. Ahem. With Land Cruisers, it seems to me that the stress around the bottom hinge of the door is a recurrent problem- Ive never seen one without at least cracks in the area. My door was no exception, and someone had bodged a repair that was both ugly and not very effective, as Id noticed the cracking continued. The problem with these doors is that the wind catched them easily and the load area is a tad small.Heres my door: 
As you can see, its past its best. and repairs inside... loose ally sheet, poorly riveted. I always wondered what the rattling was when I drove anywhere... 
'New' door from scrappy: 
showing signs of stress, but I thought if I can reinforce it now, it will save me grief later... Chopped out the loose bits with a dremel: 
And eventually extracted the bolts that hold the door. As you can see, they rusted and provided an unfeasibly small area for spreading the load they had to support. 
Cleaned them up with rust eating stuff then made a template from which I made a 1.5mm thick steel reinforcement plate. The extra holes were to provide more bonding strength as was the rough treatment with an angle grinder: 
Bit tricky fitting it in such a tight space, but got there after 40 mins, albeit with hands abused by fibreglass (no space or dexterity for gloves). Used resin to bond it in place, tightened bolts on other side (having covered spacer plates with vaseline to stop accidents then wedged some pressure against the outer edge of the plate to keep it snug: 
Once set, piled in plenty more matting to keep the plate in tight and stronger and more waterproof. 
Then wizzed round the join between the door skins with a wire brush to remove lose gelcoat, which I will smooth over with filler once the fibreglass has gone off. 
Next job will be to smooth off the filler, give the inside a going over with white plasticote to hide the hairline cracks, spruce up the hinges and fit all the catches and handles. Mount door, fit window. When it stops raining! ---------------------- |
Fri 13 Aug 2010 @ 12:22
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Filler all smoothed and sprayed up- Plasticote Satin white turned out to be the perfect match- no visible cracks now! Will get on with putting the handles and stuff on tomorrow, hopefully have it all in place by the end of the day. ---------------------- |
Fri 13 Aug 2010 @ 18:05
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