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Anon
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Now, pleased wit the results of my labours: Old on left, new on right with bits transferred over:
 ,
When it came to fit, I realised the difficulties of transferring large parts between hand made vans:
The hinge holes on the new door are 1/4 inch lower than the old, as can be seen in the pic... and Id just done a splendid job of reinforcing them and all that. The rain at this stage reflected my feelings. T new door was also bigger all round than the old one by about 3 mm, so Im going to have to sand down the edges to fit, whis tryg to compromise for the lines around the bodywork without making it all too ugly. My plans are to eventually have a fat gold band around moby, so a bit of cosmetic surgery and filler can be hidden later. Hopefully.
Further to that, I discovered the hinges originally had been misassembled- they are angled to cater for ths shape of the body- perhaps that explains why it never sat right before- probably happened at the time of the bodged repair.
Here they are with top hinge and bottom hinge in predictable positions:
Old on left, reassembled correctly, New on right.
Stamped Top Hinge:V258 & V256
Stamped bottom hinge: V262 and V260.
Im sure that will be helpful to someone!
Right. Its stopped raining. Time to mark out the doors for fitting... Im nervous about this one...
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 Sat 14 Aug 2010 @ 15:20
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Anon
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Right. Ive decided. Id looked too long for this van to take short cuts at this stage. Decided to drill new holes in the main body for the hinges, once the door was aligned properly- which will involve some investigative 'trimming', just to get close. Decided to check access from the inside, which involved taking out the rear panel above the door, the rear cieling, wardrobe and the inner window surroud (without removing the window- very pleased with myself- found a norweigian newspaper stuffed behind the panelling from June 1973- presumably his first major outing (and judging by the milage, one of the few!):
And the bolts will be just about accessible- Ill have to remove them before drilling.
Top:
Bottom:
Thought id take the opportunity to de rust, remove open cell foam from floor/ wall join- (would you believe it? absolutely soaking!) ready for repanelling later.
Tomorrow though, they say its going to be sunny. Out of the blue, the x  has finally decided to let me have my daughters-  havent seen them for ages, so Im going to happily waste a good grafting day and have a cracking day with my girls instead- a pity I didnt get the door in, otherwise we would have gone out and about in Moby.
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Sat 14 Aug 2010 @ 17:53
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Anon
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It took all day, but Im glad to say its in:
Some fettling to do, and a little filling where the change in door sizes means Ive gone between skins in the trimming, and the door stay needs attention, but the bodywork lines up as best it can, hinges work well and the gaps on either size are even. I used an angle grinder to remove most of the excess then finished off with an orbital sander before making fine tweaks with aluminium oxide paper.
Go the the window back in & resealed- Rae, youre right- a pig of a job- and Ill have to do it all again when I get some new seals.
Too tired to put the wardrobe and cieling back in- thought Id get a couple of other jobs done before putting it all back.
Ive decided it would be a good idea to make a customised shower tray an replace the hardboard panels in the loo/wardrobe with plastic ones, so I can waterproof the lot and put in drainage. Lots of thinking to do first though!
Time for a well earnt beer 
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Mon 16 Aug 2010 @ 19:17
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Anon
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Looking well a nice tidy job
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Mon 16 Aug 2010 @ 20:33
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Anon
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Hello Mike,
Had a terrible problem trying to get the back door to fit on mine so decided to purchase a door hinge repair kit. Worked fine...for a month, now the door drops just as badly as it did before but I must say Mike that yours is looking good. I must be honest with you, I have never been able to stop light creeping in somewhere round the door frame that's why, on my other van, I favoured the exhaust coming out the side, just before the rear wheel.
Rae & Ann
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Mon 16 Aug 2010 @ 21:08
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Anon
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Well done Mike - GRP panel mix'n'match can be daunting sometimes.
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Mon 16 Aug 2010 @ 21:10
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Anon
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Thanks folks. Rae, theres more than just light coming through as I havent fitted seals yet! If I were any thinner, I could walk in without opening the door!
Exhausts seem to pop out all over the place on these fine beasts- mines just behind the rear wheel (but once cooked the contents of the tool bin in the rear locker- still trying to get rid of the smell of a melted warning triangle!)
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Mon 16 Aug 2010 @ 21:53
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Anon
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Cracking job Mike - looking better ever day!!!!!
Just wish our Bedouin would turn up so that we can get cracking on it:C
Carl
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Tue 17 Aug 2010 @ 09:47
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Well, in my new birthday (boiler) suit, I decided that as I could actually open the bonnet today I thought Id get on with stuff.
As the Drivebelt cover was shredding, I thought Id get it out in readiness to make a mould for a new one. All went well, but the timing pulley (which according to the Haynes blub 'Should remove easily' wouldnt. Not wanting to damage it, I still managed to get the cover off as such a chunk was already missing. I shall fill in missing gaps with anything that comes to hand and make a plaster cast of it, from where I can make any necessary adjustments and get making a new one (or more) in ABS.
Thankfully there was just enough of ther timing marks left that I can incorporate these into the new mould!
Now, to get the timing pulley off... Ive tried gentle persuasion, boiling water to ease off and a little bit more 'tug'. Im very wary of damaging the rims of the pulley, but Im sure Im right in thinking it SHOULD separate from the drive belt pulley... am I?
When it comes to forming the new cover, I will need to have the pulley off but it might be a while before I get the new one made (holiday deliveries etc) so it should be a nice xmas 'ponder' for you all!
I also took out the heater cowl to have another go at unseizing the fan motor bush, using Phils reccommendation of soaking it in warm diesel. Itd be nice to have that working again!!
Hopefully Ill get my new front shocks in as well, so any advice will be most welcome.
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Tue 21 Dec 2010 @ 13:26
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Anon
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Aim a blowlamp at the centre of the crankshaft pulley with the bolt & washer off (it won't hurt the front of the crankshaft). Once pulley is warm it should bump off - nick the boss from underneath with a chisel for some purchase. Some penetrating oil or diesel might help too.
Before refitting the pulley polish the pulley bore & crankshaft (wire cup brush in a drill should do) & smear surfaces with engine oil.
What the cover & full set of fittings should look like -
Suggestion for setting timing marks on new cover moulding -
Align crankshaft key 4 with TDC mark 3 on front of crankcase to set TDC position of crankshaft pulley -
Make a 9 degree BTDC ignition timing mark on crankshaft pulley with a protractor anti-clockwise from the pointer & transfer to cover.
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Tue 21 Dec 2010 @ 18:43
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Thanks Phil- I never had parts 8,9 10,11, 12, which is exactly where the problem started! Explains the cable tie originally in the two rivet holes (which failed). At least I know what additions I need to make (incidentally cnat find any indication of these bits in Haynes diagrams..
BTW theres a lip behing the Camshaft pulley- which is going to make things a tad harder to make- would 'ignoring' it make much difference?
I might yet bash out a bracket to fit and secure the thing together whilst holding it in place, unless theres a decent number out there who would like a new one. Still, whilst its off, might as well have a bash!
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Tue 21 Dec 2010 @ 21:22
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Anon
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Hello Mikeyboy,
How did you get on with the roof lights/vents? Did you manage to mould any?
Rae & Ann
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Tue 21 Dec 2010 @ 21:41
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Anon
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Yes- theyre spot on. I still have the mould- do you want a pair? Pick your colour!
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Tue 21 Dec 2010 @ 21:52
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Could I have a pink pair Mike, to match my eyelids?
On the serious side, what colours do I have a choice of? Do you have any photographs of how they turned out? Don't want to hijack this thread so I think the rest of the conversation will be done by pm's
Cheers Mike
Rae & Ann
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Tue 21 Dec 2010 @ 22:12
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Anon
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Mikeyboy wrote:
theres a lip behing the Camshaft pulley- which is going to make things a tad harder to make- would 'ignoring' it make much difference?
Lip is needed for some sort of rigidity (!) around the camshaft pulley & also for the screw for the top clip that is held under the front cam cover bolt.
Clip came in with the cover lip at engine 3148550 (around 1976 I think) along with the lower curved bracket (bolted to where the timing pointer plate used to be on very early FD Victor models - they didn't have a belt cover). Before the added clip & bracket came in the camshaft toothed pulley & crankshaft front pulley used to eat their way through the cover as a matter of course...
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Tue 21 Dec 2010 @ 23:10
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Anon
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Thought so, Phil! Well I shall make a mould up anyway and experiment with postforming the lip by heatgun & folding and experiment with welding it on.
I presume then that the belt cover on Moby is an (incomplete) retro fit, him being 1973. Too much snow fell overnight to check, but will hunt around for a likely mounting place for the bottom mount as soon as.
Glad I took enough bits off yesterday to give me something to work on!
Rae & Ann- you have pmail.
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Wed 22 Dec 2010 @ 07:59
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Well, managed to patch up missing sections with Duct Tape and the plaster is setting. Im not sure how easy removal will be without breaking it, but I can patch up and smooth and fill as necessary. Best thing is, the timing marks will be on the mould! Just need someone to send dimensions of the bottom bracket and I think we might have a winner!
In the meanwhile, Ive refixed my blower fan, so can get the heating system back in ready to connect.
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Thu 06 Jan 2011 @ 14:27
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Anon
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Timing belt cover
After alowing the plaster to set overnight, decided to release it from the patched up cover Id removed from Moby. Had to be comittal about this- there was no way it was coming out without removing the reinforcing flange from the top edge. Cue angle grinder.
After much huffing and puffing and a few choice words, persuaded the plaster to come out in one piece:
 [/img]
As you can see, not a bad result- Im pleased with the missing section which I bodged using duct tape and an ally strip.Even the timing marks show up! (Though I will make them more prominent in the final one)
I then went about cleaning it up and did a bit of geometry to find centres correct the bottom edge. Bits marked out in green are where holes need to be, Red is where I need to trim the outside edge and blue is for where a bit of filler will come in useful. Ive decided that its easiest to make the reinforcing flanges around the outside of the cover then rivet on a strengthening plate, which for the sake of it may as well incorporate the mounting brackets. This way its possible to vacuum form it, though I suspect its gonna be a very tight squeeze into the machine we have at school. Anyone know of anyone who works in this area?
Before I finish shaping it up and mounting it onto a board (so I can guarantee draft angles), Im going to let it dry out for a while because it weighs a fair whack at the moment and will only clog up my tools. If I cannot vacuum form it, Ill make up a female mould from what remains of the original cover so I can compress sheets between them. Hopefully.
One other question. I know its inadvisable to run the engine without a cover but for a short period (month? ) can I get away with it?
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Fri 07 Jan 2011 @ 16:10
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Mikeyboy wrote:
I know its inadvisable to run the engine without a cover but for a short period (month? ) can I get away with it?
Apart from keeping hands well away when the engine is running, don't go ploughing into snow drifts: belt will snap.
(Been there etc. - East Kent 1969 or thereabouts, stuck in 5ft of snow between Faversham & Whitstable. Take one shovel...)
Mould looks good. Vac-form might be awkward - deep pull-in round the fixing point below the water pump hole might thin the sheet too much. Must be possible though.
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Fri 07 Jan 2011 @ 20:00
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The trick for deep cavities is to blow air under the sheet first to create a dome then raise the table quickly before sucking the air out. Makes a big difference on moulds like this. Im planning on using eithe 3 or 4 mm ABS- Ill do a test on each- rigidity will dictate which is selected!
Thanks for cover-free advice, Phil. Im getting withdrawal symptoms from being behind the wheel!
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Fri 07 Jan 2011 @ 21:13
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